Keyboard Tray Sizing and Mounting Options for Sim Racing Rigs

Quick answer

Choose a sim racing keyboard tray by measuring your keyboard first, then match the tray's mounting pattern to your rig's aluminum profile. For most 8020 profile rigs, a tray roughly 240 x 200 mm covers a compact keyboard and mouse, while a swivel mount helps if you need to move the tray out of the way. Fixed trays are simpler and cheaper, but they take up permanent space.

A keyboard tray on a sim rig is not just a shelf. It decides whether you can reach your keyboard mid-race, whether your mouse has room to move, and whether the tray fights your wheel or your knees. The wrong size or mount turns a useful accessory into a constant annoyance.

This guide gives you concrete decision rules for sim racing keyboard tray size, keyboard tray mounting options sim rig, and keyboard tray for 8020 profile rig compatibility. You will also see where a swivel or fixed tray makes sense, and which small Sim-Lab parts solve common mounting problems without drilling.

Measure width and depth before you buy

Start with your keyboard, not the tray. Measure the keyboard's width and depth, then add at least 20–30 mm on each side for mouse movement or hand rest. A full-size keyboard with a number pad is typically much wider than a tenkeyless board, so the same tray can feel cramped or oversized depending on what you own. Depth matters just as much: a tray that is too shallow lets the keyboard overhang, while a very deep tray can collide with your wheel base or seat.

For a compact setup, a tray around 240 x 200 mm is a practical reference point. That size fits a small keyboard and a mouse without dominating the rig. If you use a full-size keyboard plus a mouse, look for a wider tray or plan a separate mouse surface. Remember that tray dimensions are only half the story: the mounting plate and brackets determine whether the tray sits where you actually need it.

• Measure keyboard width and depth, then add 20–30 mm per side for hands and mouse travel.
• Check tray depth against wheel base and seat position before ordering.
• A 240 x 200 mm tray suits compact keyboards; full-size boards need more width.

Mounting options: fixed, swivel, and profile brackets

Fixed trays bolt directly to the rig and stay in one position. They are the simplest and usually the most rigid option, but they permanently occupy space near your wheel or seat. Swivel trays add a pivot so you can swing the keyboard out of the way when you are driving and pull it back when you need to type. Swivel mechanisms add a little flex and cost more, but they solve the reach problem on tight cockpits.

For 8020 profile rigs, most trays mount through pre-cut holes or slot nuts that clamp into the aluminum extrusion. The key compatibility question is the hole pattern: a tray with pre-cut holes that match your profile spacing installs in minutes, while a tray without holes may need self-threading screws or a separate mounting plate. If your tray and rig do not share a pattern, you can bridge the gap with a small adapter plate rather than drilling new holes.

• Fixed trays are rigid and cheap; swivel trays are easier to move out of the way.
• Check hole pattern and slot size against your rig's aluminum profile before buying.
• Use an adapter plate or self-threading screws when patterns do not match, instead of drilling.

Compatibility with 8020 profile rigs and button boxes

Not every keyboard tray is designed for aluminum extrusion. Trays made for 8020 profile rigs usually include slot nuts or bolts sized for the profile groove, and they may be shaped to sit flush against the frame. If you already run a button box, check whether the tray and button box compete for the same mounting space. A button box holder with a swivel mechanism can tilt backward for optimal positioning, which may free up room for a tray nearby.

Cable routing is another compatibility point. A tray that sits close to the profile can trap cables between the tray and the frame. Leave a small gap or use a tray with pre-cut holes that let you pass cables through. If you mount speakers or other accessories on the same profile, plan the order of installation so you are not removing parts to reach a bolt.

• Confirm the tray includes slot nuts or bolts for your profile groove.
• Check that the tray and button box do not need the same mounting point.
• Leave a cable gap or use pre-cut holes to avoid pinching wires.

Decision rules for choosing a sim racing keyboard tray

• If you race and type in the same session: Choose a swivel tray so you can swing the keyboard out of the wheel's path and pull it back when needed. Fixed trays force you to reach over or around the keyboard. Swivel costs more and adds a little flex, but it solves reach on tight cockpits.
• If you want the simplest, most rigid install: Choose a fixed tray with pre-cut holes that match your profile spacing. Bolt it once and leave it. This is the best option when your keyboard position never changes. Fixed trays are cheaper and stiffer, but they permanently occupy space.
• If your rig uses 8020 aluminum profile: Confirm the tray includes slot nuts or bolts for your profile groove, or plan to add an adapter plate. A tray without matching holes may need self-threading screws. Compatibility is about hole pattern and slot size, not brand names.
• If you use a full-size keyboard plus a mouse: Measure total width and depth, then size up. A 240 x 200 mm tray is a compact reference, not a universal fit. Consider a wider tray or a separate mouse surface. Buy for your actual keyboard, not the average keyboard.

Sim-Lab parts that solve common tray mounting problems

• Sim Mousepad: Premium mousepad plate crafted from durable aluminium, measuring 240 x 200 x 3 mm, with precision pre-cut holes and a black RAL 9005 coating; includes mounting hardware. A 240 x 200 mm plate is a useful size reference for a compact keyboard and mouse area, and the pre-cut holes make it easy to bolt to an aluminum profile without drilling.
• Button Box Holder: Compatible with GT1 Evo, GT1 Pro, P1X, and P1X Pro cockpits, with a swivel mechanism that lets the button box tilt backward for optimal positioning; adjustable brackets fit any button box with a matching hole pattern. If you run a button box near your keyboard tray, this holder's swivel and adjustable brackets help you position it without blocking the tray.
• Speaker Mounting Brackets (Set of 2): Mount speakers onto an aluminum frame; made for speakers with an M6 mounting hole and sold as a set of 2 (left and right), with bolts and nuts included. When you add a tray, speakers often need to move; these brackets let you relocate them on the same profile instead of losing desk space.
• Sim Cup Holder: Cup holder made of solid plastic that mounts directly to the aluminium profile; includes cup holder, mounting plate, nuts, and bolts. A small accessory like this shows how direct profile mounting works; if you can mount a cup holder, you can usually mount a keyboard tray the same way.

Who should buy which keyboard tray setup

Best for

• Drivers who need to type or use a mouse between sessions and want the tray to move out of the way.
• Owners of 8020 profile rigs who want a bolt-on tray with pre-cut holes and included hardware.
• Sim racers with a compact keyboard who want a small 240 x 200 mm footprint.

Not for

• Drivers who never use a keyboard while seated and prefer a clean, tray-free rig.
• Anyone with a full-size keyboard and mouse who needs a very wide surface; a single small tray will feel cramped.
• Rigs without aluminum profile or a compatible mounting point, unless you are willing to add an adapter.

Pick your keyboard tray by measuring your keyboard and mouse area first, then match the mounting pattern to your rig. Swivel trays suit mixed racing and typing, fixed trays suit permanent positions, and 8020 profile rigs need the right slot hardware. Get those three decisions right and the tray becomes part of the cockpit instead of a compromise.